Shikoku has a quiet, but profound presence in Japan’s archipelago. It wears its heart on its sleeve, inviting you to explore its sunlit coasts and misty mountain trails. Perhaps you’ll find a friend in Shikoku’s introspective soul.
Shikoku is the smallest of Japan’s 4 major islands, yet it gives plenty of opportunities to revel in the non secular aspect of Japan and explore some of the country’s strikingly lovely herbal areas. Divided into the 4 prefectures of Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima and Kochi, Shikoku is available through plane, train, bus or ferry from primary towns in Japan.
With its 88 temples and sacred sites, and its origins dating back to the 8th century, the Henro (pilgrimage to Shikoku) is an integral component of the Shikoku culture. It winds through the 4 prefectures, along suburban streets, quiet country streets, rugged coastal roads, and forested mountain slopes. Embark on an adventure through Japan’s cultural center and immerse yourself in an original experience that is only discovered in Shikoku.
Although committed to other deities, all sites have links to the revered monk Kōbō Daishi (774-835, also known as Kukai), a central figure of the Henro and founder of the Shingon School of Japanese Buddhism. Priests began stopping at Shikoku after his death, followed by ordinary citizens of the EDO era (1603-1867), who traveled the road in search of therapy for an illness, to express their religion or for sightseeing.
David Moreton, a Shikoku-based independent researcher from Canada who specialises in the Henro, explains:
“The Shikoku pilgrimage is due to its diversity in other sects and religions. “
“In the past, some of the sacred sites were Shinto shrines, and not all of the present-day 88 sites – which are now temples – belong to the same sect. While most are Shingon, there are a few temples from other sects, such as Zen.”
You’ll likely spot people dressed in the pilgrim’s “uniform”: white robes (hakue) symbolising purity of mind, a straw hat (sugegasa) and a colourful staff (kongozue). However, this attire isn’t mandatory and many visitors wear regular clothes. The Henro also offers a glimpse into the spirit of osettai (helping and supporting one another), as local people extend hospitality and kindness to those on the pilgrimage route.
Walking the entire length of Henro takes about six weeks, with some pilgrims now opting for cars, bicycles or public transport, and many following the direction in sections. Moreton notes that even visiting some of the temples can be very rewarding. “Unlike popular temples in big cities, Henro temples are rarely crowded and are located in diverse locations,” he says. “You can learn about the long history and culture of the Shikoku pilgrimage. “
Here are a variety of temples for your Shikoku itinerary:
Yakuōji (Temple 23) is an ideal selection for those curious about mindfulness in Buddhist culture. The temple honors Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha), who cures illness and dispels misfortune. Yakuōji is green through the stairs corresponding to the so-called “unlucky ages” – 33 for women, 42 for men. You can see other people drop a room on each level as they pass by the stone stairs hoping that smart luck follows. The respective ages are based on the classical Japanese approach to calculating age, whereby one bath is considered one year of birth, and all become one year older on January 1. No matter your age, luck is in your sights at Yakuōji, where you can check out activities like Ajikan Meditation (a Shinpassn Buddhism practice) and calligraphy (copying of Sutras) your visit. Advance reservations are recommended.
Kōbō Daishi studied Buddhist teachings in China for two years and, according to local legend, before his return in 806, he threw his ritual scepter into Japan and landed in Ashizuri. Kongōfukuji (Temple 38) is located at the tip of Cape Ashizuri. , the southernmost component of Shikoku and one of the most remote places in Henro. This impressive temple complex is surrounded by windswept pine trees and has a tranquil reflecting pond in the middle of the grounds. During its long history, the temple has enjoyed the patronage of emperors and other vital figures. Make the most of your trip to Cape Town by staying overnight and enjoy attractions such as fishing, swimming in an onsen (hot spring), hiking, stargazing, and glass-bottom boat tours to learn about local marine life.
Some special places take a little extra effort to reach and that’s the case with Yokomineji (Temple 60), considered the most difficult of all the Henro temples to access. However, once you arrive and take in the atmospheric surroundings, you’ll understand why people have been visiting for centuries. The area has long been a sacred spot for Shugendo (mountain asceticism), and Kōbō Daishi is believed to have practiced here in his youth. Yokomineji sits about halfway up Mount Ishizuchi, the highest peak in Shikoku, and the grounds are dusted with pink rhododendrons in May. Don’t miss photogenic Hoshi-ga-mori, a panoramic spot about 600m from the main temple, where a torii gate stands at the edge of a cliff, flanked by cedar trees.
Located on the Mount Perform, this temple is the highest point in the entire direction of Henro by just over 900 m above sea level. It is said that Kōbō Daishi went up to the mountain 3 times during his life. Display (temple 66) is now available through the cable car for those who prefer a less difficult address, and enjoy panoramic perspectives of the surrounding countryside on the road to the summit. Non -violent temple gardens are especially charming when the colorful autumn foliage illuminates the forest. Another attractive feature of DESCANJI is the more than 500 Natural Size statues of Arhat (disciples of Buddhist teaching) dispersed throughout the temple terrain. It is said that anyone can locate their portrait between them, so be sure to look at your stone doppelgen when you visit.
This is just a taste of what awaits you along the Henro, where you can immerse yourself in Shikoku’s rich religious heritage. Whether you’re taking on the challenge or opting for easier means of transportation to get around, observe the Henro on your terms and in a way that suits you best.
Adventure Shikoku, where each and every one of the paths leads to a new discovery. From Holy Pilgrimage Trails to nature and rich traditions, Shikoku invites you to explore the global interior of a world. Your adventure begins and let your spirit accompany you.