Review: Three Bellingham Food Trucks Lead the Way in Gastronomy

Winter is not an easy time for many businesses. Rain, bitter cold, snowstorms, and seasonal affective disorder are causing other inmates to wrap themselves in a blanket and browse Facebook. Many of us have forgotten the winter of 2020, when social distancing regulations required us all to sit on the streets, bundled up and desperately running to propane heaters to stay warm. Channel that same power with some food truck recommendations you may not know about and help our friendly community restaurants.

Greektown, usually found at Kulshan, has the honor of being the only Greek food truck in town — and a really good one at that. Growing up in a Mediterranean household, I can say with confidence that I am an authority on these cuisines. And my professional opinion? It takes me back to visits to the homeland as a kid and family dinners in my childhood home. 

What made it even more reminiscent of dinners with my family was the heated argument with Georgeos, the owner, regarding his refusal to let me pay for all my food. Those of you who grew up in a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean household will understand. That being said, the following was not in any way affected by the gratis food (especially since I’ve independently tried every item on the menu).

Monster-sized gyroscopes packed with tender poultry thighs, red meat belly, and savory slow-cooked lamb make up the bulk of the menu, with a very artistic and delicious vegetarian gyro showcasing their new dolmades. Spanakopita, loaded Greek fries, and sweet and crispy baklava round out the menu.

My favorite is the red-fleshed abdominal gyro, with a wonderfully crispy sear on the outside and a fatty abdominal decay on the inside; However, loukaniko (a highly spiced red meat sausage) is a close second. The crunch of this freshly made Greek sausage creates a surprising difference in texture when you enjoy fries topped with tzatziki, feta, roasted pita, and new veggies.

The Dolmades gyro is the lightest of the gyros on the menu, but it doesn’t skimp on flavor. The spanakopita comes in a spiral shape, maximizing the ratio between crispy phyllo dough and spinach and feta filling. It is a fact that Greektown makes some of the Greek food of the area, either traditional or by truck. Στην υγειά μας!

Sammie’s Vegan, which is discovered in Wander (but makes pop-up appearances everywhere) is one to consider if you’re following a plant-based diet. Offering vegan cheesesteaks and a quick menu of other artistic sandwich options, Sammie’s shines with the quality of its homemade seitan, a sixth-century Chinese invention, simply kneaded wheat gluten, flavored, and cooked into a flavorful, incredibly protein-rich meat substitute. I’ve tried doing this at home before and the effects of my experiments verify that Sammie is a true pro.

On my last visit, I tried both their staple cheesesteak and a buffalo not-quite-chicken sandwich. The cashew-based cheese sauce used on the cheesesteak was a bombshell. It hit all the flavor notes I expect from a Cheese Whiz, sans any animal ingredients. As a lactose-intolerant cheese lover, I’d really appreciate being able to buy a jar of this. The seitan was sliced finely and crisped beautifully, all served atop a fabulously soft sandwich roll. The overall sandwich was shockingly similar to a real-deal cheesesteak. It might not fool a Philly local or a refined palate like my own, but that’s not bad — it maintains its own flavor identity. 

The real shock came from the buffalo tastes-like-but-is-not-chicken sandwich. The seitan’s texture was pretty much spot on, while the buffalo sauce’s vinegary bite and an icy Wander beer absolutely hit the spot. Items from past menus at Sammie’s include a pizza cheesesteak, the occasional biscuits and gravy brunch, and a current (at the time of writing) buffalo chicken waffle collaboration with Sweet As Waffles, now a brick-and-mortar. 

Bellingham’s vegan and plant-based restaurants have suffered from the mistaken confidence that accepting the strictest diets means they can’t accommodate those who aren’t limited as well. When they close, there’s a lot of crying and gnashing of teeth, not knowing that the closure is due to mediocre and uninspired food that “attracts” vegans just for lack of options, and no one else. That’s not the case here. Sammie’s is suitable for all interested parties and I hope to see more of them. The concept of vegan ready food deserves, in my opinion, further exploration.

Bánh Mì and Bubble Tea, pleasantly (and permanently) located at 2604 Meridian St. , are an absolute dream from a food truck. The menu offers, as you’d expect, a variety of bánh mì and bubble tea. You can take inventory of bowls of noodles, teriyaki, and fried rice, but follow my recommendation and try bánh mì first.

Bánh mì is a fascinating sandwich. The name literally means “bread,” referring to the French colonial influence holdout of the baguette. The sandwich is a fusion of traditional Vietnamese flavors and Western ingredients. 

You can find just about anything tucked into the crusty, airy bread — my favorite is the BBQ pork, with fresh sliced jalapeños. If you’re feeling traditional, the appropriately named Traditional bánh mì comes with sliced ham, Vietnamese pork roll (cha lua) and French pate. Cha lua is pureed pork, seasoned heavily, mixed with starch and steamed in a banana leaf. They’re all served with fresh cucumber, cilantro, and pickled carrot and daikon. 

The taste of the protein is superbly complemented by the crunch of the cucumber and the vinegary touch of the pickles. The baguette they use is fabulously crispy and unbelievably good.

Even more impressive is the price: $7.99 for a 9-inch sandwich is an awesome deal. You’ll find sides like excellent char siu bao and shrimp/pork egg rolls to round out your meal, and fantastic Vietnamese iced coffee to wash it all down with. I find myself preaching the gospel of Bánh Mì and Bubble Tea to anyone I can corner. With a wide menu, fast service and delivery, ordering a bánh mì for lunch at your desk can provide a fantastic bit of color to the gray of an office job lifestyle.

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