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By Christina Liao
When a friend of mine returned from his first trip to Japan, he couldn’t help but rave about the country. From the extraordinary food to the rich history to the hospitable locals, there really weren’t any critiques. That was at least until he had arrived at Kinosaki, an onsen (hot spring) town about two and a half hours west of Kyoto. “I just could have used a heads up, you know?”
Their surprise was a reference to onsen culture in Japan, where proper etiquette demands that visitors undress completely with nothing more than a small towel to have some semblance of privacy when employing what is a common gender-segregated facility. Bathing naked with strangers is definitely not for other sensible people and can be quite surprising to the uninitiated. But after I told his fiancée about this culture when she asked me for recommendations on where to go, I thought the message would get through. In the end, we had a clever laugh at this twist of fate and came to love the culture of relaxing in the healing and mineral-rich waters, especially once he became aware of his hotel’s personal choices.
While hotels with personal onsens are not new, many institutions have opted in recent years to incorporate this option, catering not only to modest foreigners or Americans with tattoos (the ink is related to the yakuza and is banned), but also to a growing demand from tourists. Locals who prefer an exclusive experience or couples on a romantic vacation. No matter which category you’re in, we’ve rounded up some of the most productive hotels in Japan with personal onsen baths for your next visit.
While Hotel the Mitsui Kyoto may have been a little off on the timing, having opened during the pandemic, they’ve gotten just about everything else right. Just steps away from Nijo Castle, the location is remarkable and the arrival experience equally so, marked by an ornate gate dating back to the early 18th century. Interiors are elegant and sleek thanks to the masterminds of Hong Kong-based designer André Fu and Japanese architect Akira Kuryu, while still maintaining a sense of place thanks to traditional craftsmanship and a beautiful central courtyard garden. But the crown jewels can be found in the property’s subterranean spa, where indoor hot spring pools and private onsens await. Both are unparalleled in the country, but especially the latter, where a pair of rooms just over 1,000 square feet include an oversize stone basin, steam room, shower, and wet living area. Guests can even arrange for breakfast or afternoon tea to be brought in for an onsen-dining experience. And if you prefer to have round-the-clock access to the thermal waters, select accommodations also boast their own outdoor onsen. Lastly, whatever you do, don’t skip out on a dinner at Toki. Helmed by French-trained chef Tetsuya Asano, formerly of the Ritz Paris, its innovative dishes offer a beautiful marriage of French techniques with local ingredients.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Elise Taylor
There’s a lot to love in Kinosaki, where visitors are greeted at the station with a demonstration of geta sandals from the picturesque town’s dozens of hotels and public baths. And for those looking for the ultimate experience, it is also home to one of the most productive ryokans in Japan. Founded in 1860, the historic Nishimuraya Honkan continues culture in the most productive way possible. The team embodies omotenashi (the country’s unique concept of hospitality) and the Japanese-style rooms feature tatami floors, tokonoma alcoves, shoji screens, futons and seasonal kaiseki dinners served in-room by attentive hosts. (If you’re a seafood lover, opt for snow crab season, between November and March. ) As you would expect, yukatas are provided and you are encouraged to wear them while strolling around the indoor lawn or strolling along the town’s willow-lined canal. As a guest of Nishimuraya Honkan, you’ll not only have access to the hotel’s onsens and all public baths in the city, but you’ll also be able to book time at its sister property’s personal facilities. Just a short walk or round trip away, Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei offers 3 indoor and outdoor options, accompanied by a bottle of sparkling wine. You’ll definitely need to book these electronically in advance as they are incredibly popular.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Elise Taylor
With eight major geothermal hot spots, Beppu, located on the southerly island of Kyushu, is a remarkable anomaly for a city of its meager size. At ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa, guests have a bird’s-eye view of the white plumes of smoke that hover above one of Japan’s most famous onsen destinations. Naturally, given its extraordinary setting, the property offers its guests multiple ways to enjoy the therapeutic waters. Many of the accommodations sport a furnished balcony with a hot spring–fed bath in addition to sumptuous, spa-like bathrooms. But even if you don’t have a room with your own onsen, the property also offers what they’ve dubbed as a “family onsen” with an outdoor basin for a private experience. And if you don’t mind being in your birthday suit around strangers, a visit to the public onsen won’t disappoint. The facility boasts a myriad of pools including numerous al fresco basins with panoramic vistas of the city and bay.
For more activities, head to the spa, where Thai practices are combined with Japanese customs. Alternatively, through the outdoor infinity pool or into the adjacent living room while music plays through an antique JBL Paragon speaker. During their stay, visitors can choose from two on-site restaurants, plus the reservation-only Atelier, where French cuisine is paired with local ingredients, as well as an intimate bar with a wraparound balcony overlooking Beppu.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Elise Taylor
Over in Mie Prefecture, Amanemu is a luxurious ryokan-inspired property with a serene ambiance that sets the tone for a relaxing getaway. Plus, it offers several onsen options. To start, all of the well-appointed and incredibly spacious accommodations feature deep soaking tubs with hot spring water on tap. If you opt for one of the four villas, each one comes with its own separate onsen-style space complete with bathing stations to evoke traditional facilities. (Tip: Tsuki Villa is particularly special, with an onsen area that has both indoor and outdoor tubs.) In addition to the en-suite basins, the spa also has two bookable pavilions that can easily be paired with a treatment of your choice. And if that’s not enough, the pool is also fed with hot spring water. Swimsuits are required since it’s not private, but the beautiful setting—complete with daybeds, a fire pit, lush greenery, and fresh air—is irresistible. While you’re here make sure to also ask the staff to arrange a lunch with an ama. These female free divers scour the ocean for edible jewels like seaweed, lobster, and mollusks and grill their fresh catch in an amagoya hut. The Shima Peninsula is home to Japan’s largest population of ama and it’s the perfect opportunity to learn about this unique, ancient culture.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Élise Taylor
Although Nikko is a popular day trip from Tokyo, it’s worth heading to Lake Chuzenji and staying at least one night, especially if you’re tucked away in the recently completed Ritz-Carlton. Recognizing the good looks of their natural surroundings, rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and furnished balconies so visitors can enjoy stunning perspectives of mountains or lakes (the latter is definitely the way to go). The assets also provide a long list of seasonal reports focused on the wonderful outdoors, from fly fishing to guided hikes, as well as year-round activities such as morning meditations with a monk and wood carvings with local artisans. Once you’re ready to be pampered, the spa features a treatment room with a private outdoor onsen, a popular option that requires advance booking. Alternatively, head to the communal amenities and marvel at the beautiful stonework while you relax. And when hunger strikes, choose a Japanese eatery or a lakeside home-style establishment serving Italian-inspired dishes, as well as a bar offering a wide variety of Japanese whiskeys from around the country.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Elise Taylor
Surrounded by rolling hills and a birch forest in Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, Zaborin is the epitome of tranquility. In this exclusive asset where all amenities are strictly reserved for hotel guests, there are only 15 accommodations. Most rooms have Western-style beds, where futons are replaced by comfy beds and tatami mats are replaced by heated hardwood floors. But the most productive component of those luxurious digs is the pair of covered tubs and hot springs for a personal onsen experience.
For those who don’t have time to explore, hike through the nearby town of Kutchan or head to the slopes of Hanazono Ski Resort. After a busy day, head to the indoor lawn and soothe your tired hooves in the foot bath, relax in the library with an e-book, or enjoy a drink at the bar with a front-row seat to take in the allure of Mount Yotei. Then get ready for a run-of-the-mill dinner at the hotel’s kaiseki restaurant, run by Yoshihiro Seno, where the talented chef highlights Hokkaido’s exemplary ingredients, praised by the country, with his seasonal multi-course menu.
By Audrey Noble
By Maria Goldbach
By Elise Taylor
Perched on a cliff overlooking Ago Bay, the walls of this intimate hotel are covered with paintings by Yayoi Kusama. After walking through the gallery-like corridors, you’ll be taken to one of the hotel’s 8 rooms, which are even divided into two buildings. All hotels feature hot spring baths, the larger rooms in the annex feature stunning stone sinks that open onto furnished balconies. And if the view from your room’s oasis is rarely enough, there’s also an outdoor pool. Onsen at the spa that can be booked for personal sessions. While you’re here, be sure to dine at the hotel’s French restaurant to savor some of the region’s specialties, such as Matsusaka beef and a variety of seafood like lobster and abalone.
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