Forget about Yelp reviews and guides or searching for a random colleague’s Instagram post. Here are his notes (on where to stop by and what to order while cooking) from some of the South’s most acclaimed chefs, revealing the secrets of their hometowns.
Oxford, MississippiJohn Currence: Big Bad Breakfast, Boure, City Grocery Store, Snack Bar
What is the quintessential Oxford dish? All resources imply that Oxford is the creator of the bird on a stick. About 35 years ago, Four Corners Chevron, south of the plaza, began skewering birds, frying them and serving them to scholars who came well into the night. It’s well seasoned, delicious, and now a legend.
What restaurants do you go to when you’re not in the kitchen?I love Mama Jo’s, a Black-owned meat and three old-fashioned restaurants. They’re wonderful with fried poultry and roasted red meat chops, but you have to ask. for the cornbread with hot water, a secret dish on the menu. It’s spectacular for sure.
Where do you take visitors? The balcony of Bouré offers one of the most beautiful panoramic views of Oxford. I like to invite people over for a drink. When my literary friends come to town, we occasionally go to Faulkner’s grave to grab a glass of whiskey and pour some on the floor. Alternatively, the quiet solitude of sitting on the balcony of Square Books with a cup of coffee is great.
Photo courtesy of Kaya
Orlando, FloridaLordfer Lalicon—Kaya
Where do you like to eat? I love Deli Desires, a Jewish sandwich shop. I buy their “Big Mac”: corned beef, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, and special sauce on sesame bread. At King Cajun, a Vietnamese restaurant that prepares boiled crabs, they have a flavor called SheBang [all their boiled flavors are combined]. I like it with snow crab and shrimp. For something more exclusive, I’d move on to Kadence, consult my former business partners, Mark and Jen Berdin. This is a place to eat omakase. Their dish of seasonal sashimi and matcha tiramisu is fantastic.
What’s so special about Orlando’s food scene?I think other people are surprised at the quality of the food if they know where to go. We offer Vietnamese, Filipino, Filipino sandwiches and gourmet dishes. . . Not all of them are Disney or family-owned. Friendly restaurants.
What else do visitors deserve to do? Join the scenic boat tour of Winter Park, which departs approximately every hour. This domain has a rich history, amazing homes, and lovely lakes. There’s a clever side of Orlando that I wouldn’t see any other way because the chain of lakes are somewhat hidden.
Photo via Forrest Mason
Durham, North Carolina Ricky Moore—Saltbox Seafood Joint
What restaurants do you recommend? There are so many! Guglhupf Bakery, Cafe
What’s worth checking? I like to take other people to the American Tobacco campus, where there are tons of shops, restaurants, and things to do. In addition, Sarah P. Duke Gardens is a beautiful 55-acre botanical lawn with an amphitheater on the Duke campus. .
Photo via Somi Benson-haha
Savannah, GeorgiaBelinda Baptiste: Unforgettable Bakery
What is a quintessential Savannah dish? Savannah doesn’t have a signature dish, but we love red rice or any dish that goes with it. Moon River Brewing Company is a popular choice for other people who want to eat Lowcountry rice.
What local restaurants do you visit when you’re not in the kitchen?Collins Quarter in Forsyth is wonderful for brunch. They prepare several elegant dishes, such as crab cake Benedict, poultry and waffles, shrimp with grits, and Black Forest French toast. They also offer delicious coffees and teas. The Fox
Where do you take yourself to get a sense of the beauty of Savannah?I love the state historic site of Wormsloe. Es undeniable yet lovely. There’s something very captivating about the Spanish moss-covered trees and historic buildings around the trail. When you discover this hidden gem, you feel the story come to life.
Photo courtesy of Michael’s Genuine Food
Miami, FloridaMichael Schwartz—Amara en Paraiso, Harry’s Pizzeria, Michael’s Genuine Food
Named Bon Appetit’s 2023 Food City of the Year, Miami is experiencing a watershed moment. It’s been a long time, according to chef and restaurateur Michael Schwartz. When he moved south from Philadelphia more than 30 years ago, the city’s food scene “just started to get better,” he says. “There’s an opportunity to help legitimize the food scene, because it’s very club-driven and trend-driven. “The chef, who won the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the South, brings us back to the network in which he lives through organizations such as Share Our Strength, Slow Food, and Wellness in the Schools.
What is a typical Miami dish? Stone crabs at Joe’s Stone Crabs: It’s iconic. They literally consume tons of crab, so you know it’s fresh. Some old-school bartenders have been around for 50 years. It’s a scene. You’ll see celebrities, politicians, and everything in between.
What’s a hidden spot you like? Twelve Provisions in Little Havana, a little off the beaten path. It’s a husband and wife team; She’s Cuban, he’s Floridian. It’s good, honest, plentiful, and delicious food in an adorable little garden. You feel like you’re transported, you don’t feel like you’re in Miami.
What is special about Miami’s food culture? The words that come to mind are colorful and exciting. The proximity of the Caribbean, Latin America, Haiti, and other influences from around the world have a massive impact on the culinary scene. . And seafood – I can’t think of a place that has a wonderful variety of new seafood. All of this combines into a wonderful melting pot.
When you’re not dining or cooking, where do you like to take visitors?I like to pass out in the water on a boat or go to the beach. It may sound boring, but it’s my happy position. It’s great to hop off and stop by Matheson Hammock Park or the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden to walk around and see the local foliage.
Photo via Iain Bagwell
Asheville, North Carolina Meherwan Irani—Chai Pani
Asheville is known for its concentration of craft breweries, scenic walks, and colorful art, but it’s also home to a colorful culinary scene that deftly blends Southern and Appalachian flavors. In fact, this mountain town topped Yelp’s readers’ poll of the most productive. food city in the U. S. in the U. S. in 2020 and 2022. One of the chefs leading the way is Meherwan Irani of artsy Indian street food restaurant Chai Pani, which won the 2022 James Beard Award for its exceptional place to eat.
What’s Asheville’s signature dish? Chai Pani’s okra fries are the dish that has played a major role in Asheville’s notoriety thanks to countless profiles in the national press. I joke that Chai Pani has completely replaced Asheville’s tourist demographics: so many Indians!
Which restaurants do you like to support? Cucina 24, Vivian, La Bodega, El Toro
Which lesser-known post would you like to say hello to? Mother is a small bakery located in the River Arts District that deserves wonderful national love and attention for its breads – the limited number of sandwiches it makes daily disappeared almost without delay after opening.
What about Asheville’s food culture? In 2022, five of our restaurants were nominated for the James Beard Foundation Culinary Awards and two won [Chai Pani and Heal]. No other city can come close in terms of consistent capita nominations!A testament to the creativity, genius, quality and network of chefs and restaurateurs in this city.
What’s your favorite position to take visitors?As cliché as it sounds, I love bringing other people to the Biltmore Estate. The space is incredible, but the real wonder is the grounds and gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, of Central Park fame, which are simply stunning.
Photo via Denny Culbert
New Orleans, LouisianaNina Compton: Bywater American Bistro, Compère Lapin, Nina’s Creole Cottage
Widely identified as one of the world’s most productive culinary cities, the Big Easy combines African, European, Caribbean, and Asian influences into a food scene that’s richer than the darkest red. In a city of Michelin-starred chefs, St. Lucia-born Nina Compton shines in particular. He rose to fame as a Top Chef 2014 finalist and Best New Food Chef.
What is a true New Orleans dish? In fact, we have several, whether it’s jambalaya, donuts, or étouffée. But for me, New Orleans’ signature dish is po’ boy, and not everyone is created equal. Parkway Bakery and The Tavern is a wonderful place to enjoy an amazing po’boy. I love roast beef, but I rarely combine it and eat catfish or oysters. Always ask for it dressed, i. e. lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise.
What’s your favorite place to take visitors? I love bringing friends to Dooky Chase. It’s a simple restaurant where the food is really memorable. This has been around since the 1990s 1940. Su fried bird is amazing and I love the filling. shrimp.
What other place to eat local do you frequent? Bacchanal is one of my regular places when I’m not working. It’s like going to a party in a friend’s backyard. You have all the cheeses you like, they mix it all with you and help you with which wines to pair. There’s smart live music; It’s an adorable way to spend an afternoon.
What’s unique about New Orleans’ food culture?New Orleans is unlike anywhere else and has ancient influences from all over the world. One thing remains consistent, though: it’s a unified network of food stalls and food professionals that’s unlike any other booth. I’ve cooked.
What’s a little-known position you’d like to offer accessories?Marjie’s Grill isn’t fancy at all, but it’s one of the most productive local spots. It’s very relaxed. Grilled shrimp, shishito peppers, and sticky ribeyes are some of my favorite dishes.
Photo via Andrew Thomas Lee
Atlanta, GeorgiaRonald Hsu: Humble Pie, Lazy Betty
It’s highly unlikely to pigeonhole Atlanta’s food scene. Know where to look and find top-notch soul food, steakhouses that rival the most productive in the country, artsy cocktail bars that attract cult followings, and independent chefs who push the boundaries in the most delicious ways. One such visionary is Atlanta local Ronald Hsu, who fell in love with the food at his family’s Chinese restaurant south of the city and, after a cooking school in Australia, spent nearly a decade at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant. Today, with his business partner, Chef Aaron Phillips, he runs Lazy Betty, where elegant, unpretentious dishes tap into French techniques, and Humble Pie, a destination for fun wood-fired pizzas. This year, either man was a semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Southeast.
What dish goes well in Atlanta? Wings with lemon and pepper. I wouldn’t say anything like collard greens or poultry with waffles, as they’re not unusual in the South, but I think lemon pepper wings are clearly from Atlanta. My brother Howard’s restaurant, Sweet Auburn Barbecue, has a Sichuan Lemon Pepper Edition that is very good.
What’s unique about Atlanta’s food culture?Atlantaners love fancy food and a wonderful atmosphere, but they value relationships with those who work in restaurants, whether it’s the chef or the waiter. It probably has its roots in “Southern hospitality,” but that warm and welcoming atmosphere, accompanied through friendly chat, fosters a sense of community.
What local restaurants do you go to when you’re not working?I love Gigi’s Italian food at Candler Park. They put their own spin on Italian food and their tiramisu is spectacular. My wife and I love going to Kimball House in Decatur for a date night. that feels like a delight with elegant cocktails and smooth bites. We also love Delbar at Inman Park. We provide a hummus or spread it with fresh pita bread. We also love their rice (they have one with sour cherries and barberry). and its saffron sea bass.
When you’re not cooking, what’s your favorite place to take visitors?There are some wonderful places to hike not far from Atlanta, North Georgia, such as Red Top Mountain State Park, which my circle of family explored. We’ll keep planning a smart picnic. It’s hard for me to do something that’s absolutely indifferent to food.
Photo via Caleb Chauncey
Birmingham, Alabama Adam Evans: Seafood & Automatic Oysters
Alabama food conjures up photographs of the state’s signature fried white fish sauce, tomato pie and fried chicken, but Birmingham has much more to offer than those staples. In fact, in 2022, Fodors included it in its list of “10 Unexpected Dishes from the U. S. “”We are not going to be able to do anything Cities with a surprisingly good food scene,” thanks to cocktail bars and foreign flavors that punctuate the landscape. Adam Evans of Automatic Seafood
What local restaurants do you stop at when you’re not at work?We all love Frank [Stitt III]’s restaurants: Bottega, Bottega Café, and Chez Fonfon. They do a wonderful job when it comes to hospitality and make everyone feel comfortable. Especial. Me love sitting at the bar and grabbing a cheeseburger at Fonfon, and I think the coconut cake is one of the most productive I’ve ever eaten. We also love going to Pizza Grace – they were James Beard semi-finalists for Best New Restaurant. All of their pizzas are wonderful, but I love the thick pepperoni. I prefer the spicy honey sauce and a salad from the farmer’s market. Chef Rob McDaniel opened Helen, with an open kitchen and wood-fired grill encouraged by his grandmother’s cooking. He does a wonderful job with grilled meats and works with local farmers to make tasty vegetable side dishes. I also like to have breakfast at Continental Bakery – they make the most productive croissants in town.
What’s the low-key position you like? Johnny’s in Homewood is a 3-course Greek steakhouse. It’s run by a chef, so you can order cornmeal fried shrimp. It adds an attractive Greek touch to everything. We love it.
Besides the wonderful restaurants, where do you take visitors?I love spending an afternoon or morning at Ruffner Mountain. There are wonderful trails and amazing perspectives of the city.
Photo via Andrew Cebulka
Charleston, South CarolinaChef Daniel “Dano” Heinze—Vern’s
You can’t list the iconic food towns of the South without adding Charleston. Its location on South Carolina’s Gold Coast, with access to an abundance of new seafood and optimal development conditions, has seen an artsy culinary scene grow and flourish. A former chef de cuisine at McCrady’s, chef Daniel “Dano” Heinze opened his intimate, 50-seat American community bistro, Vern’s, in 2022. With a James Beard nomination in 2023, he’s already proving his resilience.
What do you consider the signature menu item in Charleston?Shrimp and grits are definitely one of those dishes. It has a lot to do with the terroir of Charleston, because the shrimp are delicious and the corn grows very well. I can’t say just one place, but look for high-quality grits, such as Anson Mills or Marsh Hen Mill, and the more modern shrimp.
In your free time, what local restaurants do you frequent? At Malagón, Juan Cassalett’s Spanish tapas restaurant, they prepare addictive lamb skewers marinated with paprika. It’s my favorite dish to eat in Charleston right now. Also, Chez Nous through Jill Mathias, where she does one of the hardest things in our industry: she adapts. menu every day, six days a week. European-style French dishes are delicious and simple.
What do you think is unique about Charleston’s culinary landscape?The seafood can’t be beat. You can paint with very smart fishermen and shrimp fishermen. Plus, the farmers are amazing. There are farmers here in Charleston who grow everything that is heirloom, just as California farmers do. That’s awesome.
Which little-known culinary stall would you like to say hello to?Kwei Fei on James Island prepares Sichuan food at this cool live music venue called Charleston Pour House. It’s delicious.
Besides restaurants, where do you take visitors?An evening walk to the Folly Beach Lighthouse is one of our favorite activities. There are old floating trees everywhere, all kinds of fresh wild plants, and other people having fun. It’s a wonderful place to watch the sunset.
Photo via Camille Tambunting
Nashville, Tennessee Leina Horii and Brian Lea—Kisser
Music City brought spicy meat and chicken to the world, but its food culture goes beyond Southern staples. Just as Nashville’s musical output isn’t monotonous, its culinary landscape thrives on diversity, from small bars serving oddly clever food to fancy restaurants. through celebrity chefs. It’s this colorful culture that encouraged chefs Leina Horii and Brian Lea to leave Los Angeles seven years ago. After working at other very sensible restaurants (including Catbird Seat and Bastion), the husband-and-wife team opened Kisser, a Japanese café that seats up to 40 people, in 2023 to rave reviews.
What is Nashville’s signature dish? Brian: The apparent answer is spicy chicken. For me, Hattie B’s never disappoints; It’s great. I regularly buy the “spicy” one, which is their mid-range. But if I get an order for multiple pieces, I’ll buy one of the “very spicy” ones because that extra point of heat is sometimes great.
Do you have any other recommendations for a place to eat? Brian: Folk is definitely our favorite. It’s delicious. We got a few pizzas, which are amazing.
Leina: They have a segment of small plates of seasonal vegetables, prepared in an attractive way. We also love Sean Brock’s Continental. We like to sit at the bar and order a martini. All dishes are perfectly seasoned and well prepared.
Which unknown position would you like to highlight? Leina: VN Pho
Brian: They also make Vietnamese-style cakes.
Besides the food, where do you take visitors?Leina: We love nature, and for biking, Natchez Trace is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been.
Brian: It’s off the beaten path, but the Lane Motor Museum, with all its attractive vintage and esoteric cars, is a cool place and a fun way to spend a few hours.
Photo courtesy of Ouita Michel
Lexington, Kentucky Ouita Michel: Holly Hill Inn, Honeywood, Midwest Bakery, Smithtown Seafood, Thirsty Fox, Wallace Station, Windy Corner, Zim’s Cafe
“The City of Thoroughbreds” is known for horse breeding and bourbon, but its colorful culinary scene could take third place. Much of the credit goes to local chef and restaurateur Ouita Michel, who runs an 8-restaurant culinary empire. Beyond the restaurant’s throngs of regulars, she has the accolades that prove her mettle: She’s been nominated eight times for a James Beard Award and is a guest judge on Top Chef.
What is the main course in Lexington? Brown beans and cornbread are the epitome not only of Lexington but also of Eastern Kentucky. For years, you couldn’t find them, so we included them on the menus of our casual restaurants. We’ve noticed a resurgence of this dish in the area, which makes me really happy. Another wonderful Kentucky dish is burgoo, a stew typically made with rabbit, pork, beef, or chicken, all sewn together in combination with peas, corn, and tomatoes. You can eat seasonally at the Keeneland Race Track for spring and autumn competitions. They make a wonderful interpretation of it.
When you have some free time, where do you eat? Toyota Camrys are made in a neighboring city, and that sparked this huge sushi culture here. One of my favorites is Michikusa, a small Japanese coffee shop located in a grocery mall. I love pressed mackerel. Chef Hiroshi Aoyagi cures it, presses it over rice and cuts it in a very quick way. I also like Korean BBQ Arirang. Es a place to eat and each table features a charcoal BBQ. It’s lively and the food is fantastic.
What are some of the hidden places you’d like to highlight?The indie food scene in Lexington is thriving. My friend Chris Cain is a local chef who runs a ridiculously clever food truck called Daughters’ Southern. Chef Nick Zaluski has some excellent outdoor facilities at Wise Bird Cider Co. Finally, there’s a coffee shop called Sage Rabbit, run by veteran chef John Foster, who is also a professor at Sullivan University. It does an excellent job with pasta.
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This article appears in Southbound’s Fall 2023 section