By Sarah Blaskovitch
11:03 a. m. on September 29, 2022 EDT
The Old Mill Inn, one of Dallas’ oldest restaurants, reopened for the Texas State Fair but will close thereafter.
The new operator of the historic building, OVG Hospitality, has spent $1 million on roof repairs, air conditioning replacements, electrical and plumbing work, and kitchen remodeling in months.
“A lot of the money has been spent on things that other people can’t see,” Fair Park spokesman Julian Bowman said on an excursion to the 87-year-old building.
The Old Mill has pretty much the same look: blue carpet on the floors and wooden shutters on the interior windows, a stone patio outside. The Old Mill Inn once functioned through former tenant Ed Campbell as a mysterious place for lunch and dinner.
The novelties are food and drinks: hot snacks and barbecue to pass and southern food outdoors, during the 24 days of the fair.
Within the assets there is a full bar. In particular, it is the only place in Fair Park where the public can buy alcoholic beverages. (It’s a fact few people know: all other adult drinks at the State Fair are wine-based, even margaritas. )
Given the intense outdoor food and drink festival at the Old Mill Inn, the strategy was to “stay away from fried food and then offer live music on the terrace,” says Josh Pyle, district general manager for OVG Hospitality. Live concerts at the Old Mill Inn the State Fair are scheduled for Wednesdays and Thursdays.
They expect visitors to wander around the captivating, albeit empty, building because of the bar.
The Old Mill Inn shows its age, with stained roof shingles that were a residual effect of the broken pipes of the incredibly bloodless winter typhoon in Dallas in February 2021. Parts of the roof were replaced due to this typhoon.
The building was created as a public charm of the Texas Centennial Exposition in 1936. It was a reproduction of a flour mill and, at the time, a fashionable marvel. The rustic construction with a water wheel contrasts with the nearby art deco constructions, erected the same decade.
It’s clear that much will have to be done for the Old Mill Inn in the years to come. But how will it be used?As a restaurant?A space for personal occasions?Like a catering establishment?
It is now used as a recovery post because the kitchen has been recently renovated. Turning it into a year-round dining room would be a total project.
Bowman and Pyle say their team doesn’t know what to do next.
“The first thing that will be open for the Texas State Fair,” Bowman says. “Then we will make our next plans. “
Visitors to the Old Mill Inn bar at the State Fair of Texas will find cocktails, adding a Texas Autumn Mule with vodka, ginger beer and apple bitter; a dovecote; an old-fashioned one; and a Carajillo with mezcal, Licor 43 and bloodless strained coffee.
They’ll have sandwiches inside, like red meat shredded into a focaccia and a steak sandwich with provolone.
Customers can pay for food and beverages with coupons or a credit card, a rarity, as most Texas State Fair sales are shown in coupon sales.
Outside, the new food house will carry macaroni and cheese loaded with poultry or fried fish on top; a hot dog; and smoked shredded poultry served with caramelized onions, coleslaw and macaroni and cheese.
We think bar-B-Cone will be popular. It’s a waffle cone folded into a cup, then filled with grilled pork, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw, and plenty of fried onion strings.
The Old Mill Inn is at 3611 Grand Ave. , Dallas. As located at the Texas State Fair Expo Center, visitors will want an admission price ticket to the Old Mill Inn from September 30, 2022 to October 23, 2022.
Find out the facts about the fair and how to mark discounted tickets.
Sarah Blaskovich, senior food journalist. Sarah writes about restaurants, bars and culture in Dallas. Follow @sblaskovich and ask them what to do, eat, or drink in your area.